Last night I enjoyed a meal at Bacchanalia in the historic Westside of Atlanta. Touted as the best of the best fine dining destinations in the city, I am as I have remained since my first visit to the “star provision biosphere”, (SPB) captivated with all that the place says it is and succeeds at delivering. Epic retail merchandising acts like Campari and soda as you make your way through toward the dining room. In a way that makes most efforts pale comparatively, with a sense of extraterrestrial style and panache, Annie Quatrano has created a l’il world of splendour where the imagination is satiated and surreal richness is founded in the beauty of the details…layers, upon layers, upon yet more layers of details…its truly astounding!
I won’t get into the food here but I will say that you don’t eat at Bacchanalia you “dine”.
With such an emphasis on the precision and exactness of everything that hits the table, there is an unavoidable reality that tears us comfort food eaters out of our shells and forces us to heed the artistic prowess and laser-focused, minutia-minded approach.
Every thing I tasted was superb however, its supreme quality is discovered through a balance of the raw pleasures of flavor and the expressive and totally contrived energy that is clearly a part of every gesture in shape, texture, color and so on … I think id say that the food was absolutely enjoyable but in the case of the desserts and even some of the savoury, in order to reach that 100% righteous mark in my mind, I had to build total points by counting both the art and the tangible tactile technical aspects together. If I wouldn’t have, i don’t think id say the gelee atop the jasmine granita was as fabulous as it was unless it was presented as it was. Very thoughtful almost to the point of science ... last night, as obscure as it may sound, my oblongatta got a workout along with my belly.
The wines:
2004 Schloss Gobelsburg, Gruner Veltliner, Austria
“Stunning aromatics, slender in the mouth, fast like a green rat snake in the tall reeds”
2003 Fincal Sandoval, Manchuela, Spain
“ schistous, smoky, and compelled to tip toe, cranberry soup meets, boysenberry pie”
2002 Alios Hills, Syrah, Santa Barbara County, California
“ lifted and like a honeymoon night, ..excited to be had..shockingly prepared and all that”
2001 Stonestreet,”Black Cougar Ridge” Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, CA
“showing the remarkable 2001 vintage, classic and staining. Polished and powerful”
Wednesday, November 12, 2008
maybe it is rocket science afterall ?....
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